LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 



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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



APR ^ 3 1884 



"STANDARD" 

Work on Cutting. 

Revised, JUnlarged and Irrup-po^red. 

THIRD EDITION. ^-^ 

if- " 



/ 




") A COMPLETE TKEATISE 

ON THE 

ART ANO SCIENCE OF GARMENT CUTTING. 



APR 3 1884/^ 



PUBLISHED BY 



^SB JlSrO. J. JVLITCHELL CO., 

NEW YORK. 



1884. 






Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1884, by 

T^^ JNO. J. MITCHELL CO. 

In the office of tlie Librarian of Congress, at Wasliington. 



^^^,/^/l 1 



I N DEX. 



PART 1. 



Page. 



Preface - - - - 5 

Measurement of the Form 6 

Measurement Systems (Coats and Vests) 10 

" " (Capes and Cloaks) ...- 36 

" " (Pantaloons) - 41 

PART 2. 

"Standard" Scale .... _._ 47 

Key to "Standard" Scale and Table of Proportion 49 

Proportionate Systems (By ' ' Standard ' ' Scale) 50 

PART 3. 

Misfits - 67 

Inclination or Attitude 68 

PART 4. 

Use of Block Patterns , 73 

PART 5. 

Making up 84 

PART 6. 

Creases in General 90 



Third Edition.] « STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. 



PREFACE TO THE THIRD EDITION. 



THE " Standard " System, has been so long before the Trade and so fully recog- 
nized, tliat we feel there is no need to enter into any defence of its principles, 
but simply to thank our manifold patrons for the support that has made it popular. 

This, the 3d Edition, is much enlarged and simplified, and the revision is so 
thorough, as to make it to all intents and purposes a new Work. 

It is put forward not as an Anatomical nor Geometrical Treatise, but as a prac- 
tical method ; the student of its pages is directed to be careful in his measurements 
and strict in the apjilication of the instructions laid down. Discarding disputation 
we enjoin attention to detail and a careful study of the peculiarities of the living 
foi-m. While abiding by the principle embodied in the 1st and 2d Editions, we have 
modified the method of its application to the recpiirements of the present time, and 
in so doing, have arranged for an easy and graceful garment ; one moreover, that will 
keep in good form and not wear into unsightly creases. 

This is the test of first-class cutting as well as of first-class manufacture ; and 
no garment will answer to it, except it be so balanced, that it will fall naturally to 
the lines of the figure, giving, at the right place, sufficient room for unimpeded motion 
of the muscles. 

We have thought it advisable to treat " Misfits " systematically, as will be seen 
on consulting that article ; we would call especial attention to the Diagrams and Ex- 
planations Illustrative of the "Attitude or Inclination" of the Figure ; this is a con- 
sideration quite distinct from lengthe and size, andis too frequently overlooked ; it is 
within the memory of the present generation that this question was opened up ; and 
it is now customary only by the advanced Cutter, to follow moi-e or less the lines of 
the form in its extreme variations ; but, owing to crude theoiies of balance, generally 
accepted by the craft, he stops with the shoulders; the attitude of the body below 
the waist is supposed to be provided for, by more or less cloth on the back plait ; the 
consequence is that it is either lap or gape; the " stooping figure " overlaps the back 
skirts, and is troubled at the hip buttons; the reverse order of failure takes place 
with the " over erect," and tlie back skirts gape ; both errors attributable to the differ- 
ence of inclination in the back skirt and the part it covers. 

"The use of Block Patterns" is fully illustrated, giving all the necessary varia- 
tions for difference of position and measurement. The articles on " Making up " 
and " Creases in general " are thoroughly practical and cover a large area of trouble 
incident to the Cutting profession. 

This Work is mainly intended for the Student and therefore covers very 
elementary ground, nevertheless, we feel assured that the most experienced Cuttei 
will be repaid by its careful study. Respectfully, 

iBfi JNO. J. MITCHELL CO. 



"STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. [Third Edition. 



MEASUREMENT OF THE FORM, 



INCORRECT Measurement, arises mainly from haste or carelessness, and is a fruit- 
ful source of trouble to the Cutter ; the best draft must be a failure if founded 
on measures not truly taken. 

The measures on which the " Standard " System is based are few and simple 
l)ut they require to be taken with care. 

Measuring Jackets are growing into favor with the Trade; they should be made 
up firmly, padded and wadded as usually worn, with both sleeves put in. One 
sleeve causes mistakes by allowing the Jacket so easily to get out of place, and, as 
most customers have a difference in the lengths of their arms, two sleeves make the 
detection easy to the Cutter, without annoyance to the Customer. 

A set of Jackets 34, 36, 38, 40 and 42, cut straight in front and large enough to 
pin together easily is all that is required. A Set, cai efully cut by oui' new Scale, 
having the lines by which the draft is produced sewed through by machine in col- 
ored silk so as to be plainly marked, cannot fail to give the Cutter many a valuable 
suggestion that can be noted in the measure book. 

Illustrative Figs. 1 and 2, represent one method of taking the measures, the draft 
being based upon the location of the two points : one at the front of the scye, taken 
on a level under the arm, and the other taken from a point on the back seam, also 
on a level under the arm; it will be seen at once, that these two points should be 
carefully located to start with ; this is a very simple method, requiring only a small 
square and a piece of rough cardboard or leather, with inches marked on either side. 
Close the Coat, place the straight edge of the cardboard as close under the arm 
as is convenient, taking especial care that it is close. Mark on the top edge, front 
and back of scye, hold in same position and place square as seen on Fig. 2 ; locate 
points front and back as denoted by the square ; the numbers on the cardboard 
are only useful, as marking more accurately the location of the arm of the square. 

Remove the straight edge, and measure from socket bone at O, to C on back 
seam — 8f, to natural waist^^rKU, to fashionable waist — 18^, full length — 30; the point 
located at back scye will give the width of back — 7i, to elbow — 20, full length of 
sleeve — 31 ; from point located at front of scye under the arm to C — 11^, from same 
point at front of scye up in front of shoulder to socket bone, (1st over measure) 
— 12^ ; from same point at front of scye across front shoulder down to C, (2d over 
measure) — 18 ; Breast measure on the Vest, on the blade neither above nor below — 
36, waist — 32, on the hips below the waist — 35; measures : 

8| 7i lU 36 

16^ 20 12i y 32 

18i 31 18 j 35 
80 



Third Editio7i.] 



"STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 




c^. y 



O^^. 



8 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. {Third Edition. 

MEASUEEMENT, Coidinued. 

Another Method, and perhaps the most popular with the Trade, is represented on 
Figs. 3 and 4. 

After having closed the Coat, the ordinaiy square with sliding arm is placed 
against the back, one arm being placed close to the left side of the form and as close as 
possible up under the arm without disturbing the shoulder; close in the sliding arm 
to the right side of the figure. Mark across at front of scye and on back seam and be- 
fore removing square, lay a short square on the sliding arm resting against front of 
scye, but not too close, as the scye must give room for motion of the arms and the play 
of muscles ; do the same at back scye for width of back, remove square, and measure 
from points as now located. 

The advantage of the lines on the Measuring Jacket will be apparent at once 
the mark made for depth of scye on back, can be compared with the normal line of 
the method and so at the front of scye, and the Judgment of the Cutter is called upon, 
to consider and alter if necessary the measures taken; thus a false step at the starting 
point can be at once adjusted, saving the expense of bushelling and the consequent 
annoyance to Employer, Customer and Cutter. 

The measure from the front of scye to the natural waist has been omitted in 
this Edition, the draft being balanced by the square of the breast measure which is a 
a far better guide than a measure which passes over a curveliuear surface, at one part 
rounded, and at another hollow. It has been usual to instruct the Student to take this 
measure tight, but it is not a reliable measure as is proved by taking it always ex- 
act, and then finding in practice that no regular reduction will insure correctness; 
there are many methods of waist suppression superior to it, and we have found the 
one given satisfactory. The Student must not suppose that his measures are incorrect, 
simply because they sometimes happen to be much longer or shoi'ter than he may 
have hitherto met with ; on a 36 Breast the front scye measure to the center of back 
at scye level, will vary from 11^ to 12f inches; the measure from front of scye over 
shoulder to socketbone, will vary on a 36 Breast, from 1\\ to 12^, and in very ex- 
treme cases even to 13 inches. 




Third Edition.'] 



"STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 




oi^^.j^ . 



C^(2?. 



"STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. [Third Edition. 

DIAGRAM 1. S. B. SACK. 

j Front of Scye, \\.\ f g 7 



16 



MEASURES. Jgi a^ '" ^"'^* ^^^^' measure, 12i ^ 3^ 20 



31 



First over measure, 12|^ -l <§^ 
80 J I Second over measure, 18 ^ 

Breast, 36 ; Waist, 32 ; Hip, 35. 
DRAFT PEODUCED BY THE MEASURES. 

ARRANGE measures by which to draft as follows : 
Add J to depth of scye, 8 f— 9 ^ inches; 

Add 1 to front of scye, l\l — 12^ inches ; 

Add I to front of scye to square the shoulder by, 11^ — 12|^ inches; 

Add i to first over measure, 12^ — 12| inches ; 

Deduct 1^ from second over measure, 18 — -171 inches. 

Draw line for back seam and square across as at O ; 

Fi'om O to C is 9^ inches — From O to natural waist is 16| inches — From O to 
fashionable waist is 18^ inches — From O to full length is 30 inches — Rise of neck, 
f of an inch ; 

Width of top of back is 2f inches ; 

B is half way between O and C ; A is 1|- inch above B ; 

A to W is 7\ inches — square down to breast line— top of side seam is at | from 
line C ; Form side seams taking ont at natural waist \\ inch — spring is -^ at 30 
inches from O, for all lengths and sizes ; 

From C to F is 12^ inches ; Square up as illustrated ; 

From C mark off \ breast, 18, and add 2 J inches ; Square down— add 1 inch 
for button step; From C sweep up for front of breast ; At B, lay 12^ inches on 
square, the angle falling on breast line at E — and square up by the other arm ; 
From F, sweep across this line by first over measure, deducting width of top of back 
for shoulder j^oint ; 

Hollow back as illustrated and cut it out ; Lay back in position at shoulder 
point, and form shoulder seam by second over measure 17f, dropping at scye point 
^ inch ; 

Form scye — shape gorge, raising neck at front 1 inch, taking out small V ; 

Sweep front length from shoulder point, by length of side seam ; 

Notch at back scye is from W ; 

Finish draft as illustrated. 

{Continued on page \2.) 



Third Edition.'] 



STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 



11 



C9J 




16* 



18i 



12 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. \Tliird Edition. 



S. B. SACK, Continued. 

Remarks. — The depth of scye measure on back seam, taken by a level under 
the arm is nearly always taken short ; if taken strictly correct it cannot be applied 
litei'ally, as taken, without giving too short a length of back stretch ; it is necessary 
to add \ inch in the application of this measure, and by adding \ more for seam we 
get the I which we advise in the use of this measure ; those who neglect this pre- 
caution get their coats too short in the back. In shaping the gorge take care that it 
is not too hollow ; it is a misconception to suppose that it is necessary to make what 
is called a true curve from O, through the shoulder point to the button step; the 
height of front neck and depth of stand of collar, govern the line of the neck curve 
and any other idea is a fallacy accepted without sufficient thought ; style controls 
both points — if the collar is narrow, the back at top of back seam must be higher; if 
the roll is short, the front neck must be higher also ; high or low at back, or front 
the side of the neck is a point not much affected thereby, and the consequence is, 
that the sweep of the neck curve has to meet either contingency. 



DIAGRAM 2. LONG SOFT ROLL SACK. 



DRAFTED same as Diagram 1 on page 11, except that it is cut more or less full 
on the lappel edge, according to the prevailing style ; the dotted lines represent 
the neck and gorge as usually cut ; the solid lines the necessary deviations to secure 
a close fitting Coat at the side of the neck, and yet preserve the desired effect of the 
long narrow roll. The collar does not require to be cut more crooked than in the 
diagram. 



Third Edition.] "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 



13 




14 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. {Third Edition. 



DIAGRAM 3. S. B. OVER-SACK. 




8| ai ^ Front of Scye, 11^ 

MEASURES ;^i I iiir'-"""""' ;«* 

38 h^ J Breast, 38 (over the coat), Seat, 39 

DKAFT PRODUCED BY THE MEASURES. 

ARRANGE measures by wHch to draft, as follows : 
Add 1 to depth of scye, 8f-9f inches. 
Add 1^ to front of scye, 11^-13 inches. 

Add 1| to front of scye to square shoulder by, lH-13 inches. 
Add 1 to first over-measure, 12^-13| inches. 
Add I to second over-measure, 18-18^ inches. 
Draw line for back seam ; square across as at O. 
From O to D is 2 J inches. 

Form top of back, raising at O | and at D 1 inch. 

From O to C is 9f; natural waist I7i; fashionable waist 19; full length 38 inches. 
B is half way between O and C. 

A is l\ inch above B; A to W is 7f inches ; square down to breast line. 
Top of side seams is -^ above breast line (19 on 12ths). 
Form side seams taking out at natural waist 1 1 inch. 
Spring is \ at line 3fi inches down. 
From C to F is 13 inches ; square up 3 inches. 

Measure across breast 19, adding f for reductions at back seam and blade. 
Add 2^ for making up and square down. 
Make step 2 inches more or less and square down. 
Sweep up for front from C. 
On line 36 reduce at front 1\ inch. 
Form front as illustrated. 
At B lay arm of square at 13 inches, letting the angle of square fall on the 

breast line at E, and square up by the other arm. 
From F sweep across this line l>y first over-measure 13^. 
Take oif width of top of back 2^ inches. 

Hollow back seam, springing it out at bottom on line 36, one inch. 
Cut out back and place same in position at shoulder point. 
Close the shoulder by 2d over-measure. 

Reduce at point of scye scant 4 inch, and form arm scye as illustrated. 
Back pitch is \ way between A and C. 
Form gorge of neck, raising at front 1 inch. 
Take out V as illustrated. 
Make the neck curve to follow diagram. 
Avoid a curve like the dotted line. 

Sweep for bottom from shoulder point by length of side seam. 
Take out fish under arm and finish draft as illustrated. 



"STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. [Third Edition. 



DIAGRAM 4. S. B. ONE BUTTON CUTAWAY. 



-- Front of scye IH ^ 

I First over measure 12 J { 



-^* ,S I First over measure 12 J { <s 7^ 

MEASURES. !«? |fi ;- Second over measure 18 ^ | 20 

J^^ § I Slope of shoulder 20, 25^ 1^31 

^^ ^ J Breast 36, Waist 32. Hij:) 35. ^ 

DRAFT PRODUCED BY THE MEASURES. 

ARRANGE measures by which to draft as follows : 
Add I to depth of scye, 8|-9i inches. 

Add 1 to front of scye, lli-12i inches. 

Add f to front of scye to square shoulder by 11^- 12^ inches. 

Add I to first over measure, 12^-1 2f inches. 

Deduct \ from second over measure, 18-17f inches. 

Draw line for back seam, and square across as at O; 

From O to D is 2f inches; square up f for rise of neck; form top of back. 

From O to C is 9i inches; from O to natural waist is 16, the fashionable waist 
18^, full length 33 inches. B is half way between O and C; A is 1| inch above B; 

A to W is 7i inches ; square down to breast line ; top of side seam is 2^ inches 
from W (18 on 8ths.) Form side seams to fancy; at top of side seams reduce a trifle, 
but keep the top of side seam on a level with short line as illustrated; on line C, 
take out \ inch; at natui-al waist If inch ; 

From C to F front of scye is 12^ inches; square up as illustrated. 

From C mark off | breast 18, allowing | for reductions at back seam and blade; 
add 2J and square down; add 1 inch for button step and sweep up from C for front; 

Form front more or less cutaway as desired; 

At B lay 12^ inches on square the angle resting on breast line at E and square 
up by the other arm; From F sweep across this line by first over measure deduct- 
ing width of top of back for shoulder point; 

Hollow back as illustrated and cut out ; Place back in position at shoulder point 
and form shoulder by second over measure I7f, dropping point of scye \ inch; 

Form scye as illustrated ; form under arm seams, reducing i inch at natural 
waist; form gorge, raising front of neck 1 inch above line A; Reduce at step by small V; 

Sweep for length of front, at 1 inch behind shoulder point by length of side 
seam. Before cutting out the scye, place back and side body in closing position, 
and correct shape of scye if necessary; Back pitch is jV from W; 

Remarks : — In this Draft a new measure is introduced for closing the slope of 
shoulder, familiar to many, though not generally known; the measure is taken on the 
body, placing say 20 on the tape measure at the socketbone or collar seam, (either on 
Coat or Vest); throw the end of tape which commences at 1 over the front of shoulder 
bringing it close up under the arm and up round the back scye; take hold of the end 
of the measure at 1 by the right hand, and holding it firmly at back scye let go the 
measure at 20, and bring it do\\'n to the level of arm scye on back seam; call off the 
measure, 2b\ in the present case; this shows a difference of b\ inches in the two 
over measures; this measure is applied on the draft exactly as it is taken on the 
body; place back in closing position at shoulder; place 20 at O and carry the end of 
the measure that commences at 1 close to the front of scye; place the finger of the 
left hand on it where it touches the front of scye, and then let go the measure at O 
and bring it down to C, and if it measures \ inch less than 25:^ the shoulder is closed 
correctly; if more or less, close or open it to 25. 



"STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. {Third Edition. 



DIAGRAM 5. S. B. FOUR-BUTTON CUTAWAY. 



8f ^ ^ Front of scye, n\ { '^ ^i 

MEASURES. J^f -& iFirst over-measure, 12i I | ^ 

Ihi c Second over-measure, 18 1 ^ 01 

33 H^l J Breast, 36; Waist, 82; Hip, 35 i^S "^^ 

DRAFT PRODUCED BY THE MEASURES. 

ARRANGE measures by which to draft as follows : 
Addf to depth of scye 8|-9A inches. 

Add 1 to front of scye ll^-12i inches. 

Add f to front of scye to square shoulder by 11^-12^ inches. 

Deduct \ from second over-measure 18-l7f inches. 

Draw line for back seam and square across as at O. 

From O to D is 2| inches; square up f for rise of neck; form top of back. 

From O to C is 9^ inches : to natural waist is 16 ; fashionable waist 18i ; full 
length 33 inches. B is half way between O and C ; A is 1^ inch above B. 

A to W is 7i inches ; square down to breast line ; top of side seam is 2^ 
inches from W (18 on 8ths). 

Form side seams to fancy ; at top of side seams reduce a trifle, but keep the 
top of side seam on a level with short line, as illustrated ; on line C, take out h incli 
and at natural waist. If inch. 

From C to F front of scye is 121 inches ; square up as illustrated. 

From C, mark off ^ breast 18, allowing f for reductions at back seam and blade; 
add 2^ and square down; add 1 inch for button step, and sweep up for front. 

At B, lay 12^ inches on square, the angle I'esting at E, and square up by the 
other arm. From F sweep across this line by first over-measure, deducting \vidth of 
top of back, for shoulder point. Hollow back as illustrated, and cut it out. 

Place back in position at shoulder point, and form shoulder b}^ second over- 
measure, 17|, dropping point of scye \ inch. 

Form scye as illustrated; form under arm seams, reducing \ inch at natural 
waist. Form gorge, raising front of neck 1 inch above line A. 

Reduce at step by a small V. 

Sweep for length of front, at 1 inch behind shoulder point by length of side 
seam. Cut side body through under arm. 

Before cutting out the scye place back and side body in closing position, and cor- 
rect shape of scye if necessary; back pitch is Jj from W. 

Measure across the closed draft on the waist line, allowing for seams, h the size 
of hip, and make a mark; add 1 inch over and draw line of front through this point; 
space off buttons; top button is 3^ inches from top of step; place skirt in closing 
position at front of waist and form front from bottom button, as illustrated. 



Cm 




"STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. [Third Edition. 



DIAGRAM 6. D. B. FROCK. 



8f re "] Front of Scye lU f ^ ^.i 

M^?A«^TT■R^^^^ 1*"'* 'In I First over Measure 12^ j^ '^ 

MEASURES, ^g, t^Y Second over Measure 18 i 



20 
31 



I6i '3 I First over Measure 12i 

18^ c [ Second over Measure 18 | , 

37 h3 J Breast 36, Waist 32, Hip 35 1^' 

DRAFT PRODUCED BY THE MEASURES. 

ARRANGE measures by which to di'aft as follows ; 
Add I to depth of scye, 8| — 9^ inches ; 
Add 1 to front of scye, IH — I2h inches; 

Add f to front of scye to square shoulder by, IH — \2\ inches ; 
Add \ to first over measure, 12| — 12f inches; 
Deduct \ from second over measure, 18 — I7f inches ; 
Draw line for back seam ; square across as at O ; 
Rise of neck is | of an inch ; width of top of back is 2| inches ; 
From O to C is 9A inches; From O to natural waist is 16^, the fashionable 

waist is 18^, full length is 37 inches ; 
B is half way between O and C ; A is ^ from B ; 
From A to W is 7 i inches ; square down as illustrated ; 
Form shoulder seam of back ; 
From W to top of side seams is 2\ (18 on 8ths) ; 

Form side seams taking out at blade ^ inch and at natural waist If inch ; 
Width of back at natural waist is 2^ inches ; 
From C to F is 12i inches ; 
Square up 3 inches as illustrated ; 
From C, measure across ^ of Breast 18 inches, allowing | for reduction at back 

seam and blade — 18| inches; 
Add 2\ inches and square down ; 
Sweep up from C, for front of breast ; 
Form under arm seams, taking out \ inch at natural waist ; 
Measure for front of waist \ of waist measure 16, adding 2\ for making up \S\ 

inches ; 
Form front as illustrated ; 
At B, lay one arm of square at 12^ inches, letting the angle of square rest on 

breast line at E ; square up by the other arm ; 
From F sweep across this line by first over measure ; 
Deduct width of top of back which gives shoulder point ; 
Cut out back, and lay in closing position at shoulder, and form shoulder seam 

by second over measure 17f inches ; 
Reduce at point of scye scant i, inch, and shape scye as illustrated ; 
Back pitch is on 12ths from W ; 
Form gorge raising at front | inch ; 
Follow the illusti'ation taking out a small V ; 
Sweep for length of front, at 1 inch behind shoulder point, by length of side seam, 

and finish draft as illustrated. 



Third Mlitiofi.] 



'STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 




"STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. [Third E<lit ion. 

DIAGRAM 7. D. B. FROCK. 

CORPULENT FIGURE. 



9| J f Front of scye 13^ ~) o 8 

MEASURES. 18i f4 First over measure 1 4 ^§21 

20i ^ y Second over measure 20f J ^ 33 

Breast 43. Waist 45. 
DRAFT PRODUCED BY MEASURES. 

ARRAISTGE measures by which to draft as follows : 
Add I to depth of scye, 9f — lOi inches ; 
Add 1 to front of scye, 13^ — \i:\ inches; 

Add I to front of scye to square shoulder by, 13:^ — 14 inches , 
Add ^ to first over measure, 14 — 14i inches. 
Deduct \ from second over measure, 20| — 20A inches. 
JJraw line for back seam ; Square across as at O ; 
On 8ths from O square up ; 

Make rise of neck | inch ; Width of top of l)ack to fancy ; 
From O to C is lOi inches ; From O to natural waist is 18^ to fashionable 

waist 20^ inches ; B is half way between O and C ; 
A is 1|^ inch above B ; A to W is 8 inches; square down to breast line; 
Top of side seams is on 8ths from AV ; 

Form side seams taking out A inch at blade and 1 1 inch at natural waist ; 
Width of back at natural waist is ^ (21^ on 8ths) ; 
From C to F is 14^ inches ; 
Square up for front of scye as illustrated ; 
Fi'om C measure size of breast 2H inches allowing | inch for reduction at blade 

and at back seam, 22^ inches ; 
Add '2\ inches and square down ; sweep front by C ; 
At B lay arm of square at 14 inches letting the angle of square fall on breast 

line at E ; Square upward by the other arm ; 
Sweep from F across this line by the first over measure, 14 A inches ; 
Take off width of top of back for shoulder point ; 
Cut out back and place in closing position at shoulder point ; 
Form shoulder seam by second over measure 20i inches ; 
Reduce at point of scye A inch ; Form scye as illustrated ; 
Form gorge raising at front f inch ; 

Form under arm seams taking out i inch at natural waist; 
Sweep for length of front at 1 inch behind shoulder point ; 
Cut out side-body ; Place back and side-body in closing position at waist ; 
Measure for waist, adding 2| inches ; 
Form front as illustrated ; 
In forming waist seam take out two Y's running each within li inch of the 

natural waist line : 
That a Coat ma}- button easily at the waist for a corpulent figure more is allowed 

than usual, which extra allowance {\ inch) is used up in the extra V. 



Third Edition,'\ 



"STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 



23 




Cl05 



24 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. [Third Edition. 



DIAGRAM 8. DRESS COAT. 



'? 



t-H~) Front of scye lU f 

MEASURES. ]l\ I '- f""'^ 7^^ ™^^^"''« 1-i J f 20* 

loi «■ I Second over measure la | <5 



36i J* J Breast 38. Waist 32. (^ 

DEAFT PRODUCED BY THE MEASURES! 



2 71 
20 
30^ 



ARRANGE Measures by which to draft as follows : 
Add f to depth of scye, 8| — 9^ inches ; 
Add 1 to front of scye, 11^ — 121 inches; 

Add J to front of scye to square shoulder by, IH — 1-\ inches. 
Add I to first over measure, 12:^ — 12f inches; 
Deduct \ from second over measure, 18 — 17f inches. 
Draw line for back seam ; Square across as at O ; 
On 8ths from O square up ; 

Make rise of neck § inch ; Width of top of back to fancy ; 
From O to C is 9i inches; From O to natural waist is 161, to fahionable waist 
18^; B is half way between O and C ; A is 1^ inch above B ; A to W is 1\ 

inches ; 
Square down to breast line ; Top of side seams is on 8ths from W ; 
Form side .seams taking out h inch at blade and If inch at natural waist ; 
From C to F is 12:^ inches ; Square up for front of scye as illusti-ated ; 
Fi'om C measure size of breast 18 inches, allowing for reduction at blade i inch 

and square down ; add If ; Sweep front by C; 
At B lay arm of square at V2\ inches letting the angle fall on breast line at E ; 
Square up by the other arm ; 

Sweep from F across this line by first over measure 12f inches , 
Take off width of top of back for shoulder point ; 
Cut out back ; and place in closing position at shoulder point ; 
Form shoulder seam by second over measure 17f inches. 
Form scye as illusti'ated ; 

Form neck gorge raising at front \ inch and reducing by V as illustrated ; 
Form under arm seams taking out h inch at natural waist; 
Sweep for length of front at 1 inch behind shoulder point ; 
Reduce length of front f of an inch on account of sti'ap of skirt ; 
Finish draft as illustrated reducing lapel seam at waist, to the prevailing style ; 

The Diagram is reduced H inch hill ; Back pitch is on 12ths fi'om W. 

TO DRAFT THE SKIRT. 

Draw line A B; From A at 9 inches down, square out U nch for spring of plait 

Squai-e across at A for waist; Six inches from A ; squai-e up A inch ; 

Measure for size of waist; Drop at front \ inch ; 

Draw waist seam to fit fore part ; Make skirt to length required ; • 

Draw front of skiit as illustrated ; Width of skirt at bottom \. 




36i 



26 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. [Third Edition. 

DIAGRAM 9. SLEEVE. 

SQUARE lines for top and hind arm ; 
From O mark off on hind arm li and 3f inches always ; Square out from these 
points ; On the lower line mark off 6 inches always ; 

From point at I5, draw diagonal line thi'ough point 6 to A ; Make this diagonal 
line \ of the scye measure ; Square down from A to B for forearm ; 
Foi'm sleeve head as illustrated ; 

UNDERSIDE. 

From point 1\ on the diagonal line mark off | of its length and square down If 
inch as illustrated ; 

Measure underside \ inch more than under half of scye, spacing equally at fore 
and hind arm seams as illustrated ; 

Measure for elbow and full length deducting width of back ; 

Sweep for length of forearm by full length, from top of hind arm ; 

Finish draft making seams at fore arm of top and underside of equal length 

It will be seen on the Diagram that the top half at hand is widened 1 inch and 
the under half reduced correspondingly, to place the forearm seam well under at the 
hand. The over erect figure will require the top of hind arm to be shortened | of an 
inch more or less, the other points remaining the same ; for the stooping figure 
lengthen the top of hind arm, the same quantity. 

DIAGRAMS 10-11. SKIRTS. 

To draft a' Skirt is simply to fit it to the waist seams so as to produce the given 
amount of drapery required by the prevailing style. The Cutaway is as close 
and devoid of drapery as it is possible to wear without inconvenience; while the 
Frock (single and double breasted) is subject more or less to the caprice of Fashion 
in this particular. This necessitates a change in the details of the draft for every 
change of style. By the Diagram it will be seen that a very slight departure from 
the square gives enough of drapery for the Cutaway skirt : 

To draft Cutaway Skirt place the angle of square as at A and square over and 
down ; From A make skirt to measure at D ; Mai'k oft" full length of skirt on plait ; 
Raise waist seam at 6 inches from A, one inch; Form waist seam dropping at D, a 
scant i inch ; 

Spring plait I inch at 9 inches down from A and form plait as illustrated ; 

Place skirt in closing jiositiou at waist and form front line more or less cutaway 
according to prevailing style. 

The Single or Double Breasted Frock Skirt as now worn is pretty close to the 
form, and by following the Diagram a good skirt for general use may be produced : 

Lay angle of square as at A and draw lines over and down ; 

From A measure over 9 inches and square up 1:^ inch. 

At A raise 1^ inch, mark off from A to B necessary size of waist, allowing for 
fullness, and square down to C ; Form waist seam as illustrated ; From A on plait 
line go down 9 inches and sipiare out 2 ; Form curve of plait j^assing through point 
A and 2 inches spring, to length required ; Sweep for bottom at equal distance from 
waist seam, giving a little more round at the center of the sweep. 

DIAGRAM 14. COLLAR. 

From O square over and down ; From O to A is 2\ inches ; O to B length of 
neck and a seam ; Finish as illustrated. 



Third Edition.} 



"STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 



27 



li 




"STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. [Third Edition. 

DIAGRAM 13. SLEEVE OF OVERSACK. 

ChaDged to suit lowered back pitch. See page 14 Diagram 3. 



THE solid lines show the top and underside as drafted for the usual depth of 
back pitch ; the dotted lines, the increase made on the top side, and the corres- 
ponding decrease on the under side — the principle is simple enough ; top of hind arm 
at point 1|, would be sewn in at the regular back pitch, as that point is loAvered, the 
hind arm seam must be lowered the same — the top side will be that much wider, 
the under side the same amount narrower; the seam is put in another place preserv- 
ing the correct lengths tobalance the sleeve with the altered back pitch. 



DIAGRAM 14. BACK AND BACK SKIRT. 



TO DRAFT BACK SKIRT. 



DRAW line A B full length of Coat one inch in from the edge of cloth ; 
Place back in position as illustrated ; 

According to the attitude or inclination of the figure f to 2 inches at natural 
waist from line A B ; 

To know how much, take the indentation by the square at the natural waist of 
of the customer ; 

Square across at bottom of back skirt as illustrated ; 

Square up to bottom of side seam at hip ; 

Round slightly for plait ; 

Mark off back tack ; 

Draw line from B to C ; 

Allow for turning in of back skirt and finish draft as illustrated ; 

Should the figure be over ei'ect and give more than 1^ inch as the indentation 
at hollow of waist, the back skirt will be produced too wide at the bottom to look 
well ; reduce to the desired width at bottom and add the amount reduced whether 
\ inch or 1| inch, to the plait of the skirt ; 

The principle of this method in drafting the back skirt is to get it of the same 
attitude or inclination as that of the figure it is intended to cover ; in the case of the 
over erect figure it prevents the opening of the back skirts, and in the stooping 
figure, it avoids the lapping of the same ; two errors frequently seen and which gives, 
in the case of the over erect figure, considerable trouble to correct. 



Third Edition.^ 



'STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 



29 




30 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. {Third Edition. 

DIAGRAM 15. S. B. VEST ; 

Breast 8B ^ Level of Scye 8| f-n^ .,1 mi 

MEASURES ^"^ '^2 '1 Natural Waist 17 ^""f ""^^T" \% 

MEASURES. ^ ^^^^^^^^ ^^, ).^^^^^^^ ^^ ^^^ - Back " 19^ 

Full length 25" J First over Measure 12i t^^^^P^ ^* ^^^'^l^^'" ^0-25^ 

DRAFT PRODUCED BY THE MEASURES. 

ADD f to Scye depth, 8f— 9^ inches ; 
Acid 1 inch to front of scye, lU — 12A inches; 

Add f to front of scye to square shoulder by, 11| — 12| inches ; 

Add 1 inch to front balance, 19^ — 20^ inches ; 

Add \ to back balance, 19i — 19J inches ; 

Add I to 1st over measure, 12^ — 12f inches; 

Add \ to 2ud over measure, 18 — 18^ inches ; 

Draw line for back seam ; Square across as at O ; From O to C is 9| inches ; 
B is halfway between O and C ; Fi'om O to D is i and a good seam ; 

At D square up f for rise of neck ; Width of top of back to fancy ; 

From B to W is 1 and ^ ; Square up from W ; From C to F is 12^ inches ; 

Measure across I of breast' measui-e 18, and add 2^ for making up, 20^ inches ; ; 

Square down for front ; Sweep up by C for size of neck ; 

Square up from F for front of scye, 4 inches ; 

At B lay one arm of square at 12^ inches, letting the angle of square rest on 
breast line at E ; Square up liy the other arm ; 

From F sweep across this line by 1st over measure ; 

Deduct width of top of back, which gives shoulder point ; 

F'rora shoulder point, draw line to B'for shoulder seam of forepart and where 
it cuts the line squared up from W, will give the shoulder seam of back ; 

Form both shouldei- seams, and scye as illustrated, clearing at F, A inch ; 

Measure for top button, allowing f for seams. Measure for length 25, and square 
across to back seam ; Add 1 inch for seams and making up ; 

Form bottom as illustrated ; Divide draft in halves ; Square line down ; 

Take out 1 inch on each side of line, at natural waist ; 

Reduce f at natural waist on back seam ; and at top \ of an inch ; 

Fit collar as illustrated ; Before cutting out scye, apply front and back balance 
check measures as illustrated ; 

The measures are taken as per dotted lines, at | of the waist measure from back 
seam, at the natural ivaidjust ahove tlie hip; in the regular proportioned figure these 
measures will be alike ; on lai-ge or small waists, stooping or over-erect figures they 
will vary ; in applying the measures add \ to back balance, and 1 inch to the front 
balance ; measure from O each way and make a mark at natural waist ; cut out the 
back and place the marks together in closing position ; the back may be too long or 
too short according to the requirement of the figure — if so rectify the run of scye at 
bottom accordingly. 

The most common fault in Vest cutting is to get the shoulder too tight at the 
point of scye; this will cause the shoulder to wrinkle and throw all the other points 
out so much as to give the appeai-ance of a general misfit, and yet very few cutters 
apply any measure to close the shoulder, relying on the ordinaiy proportions and 
their memoiy of the figure ; The 20-25} measure, in connection with the two check 
balance measures is invaluable in the use of a set of Vest Patterns. 



T/iird A'difioit.] 



"STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 



31 



COi 




"STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. yThird Edition. 



DIAGRAM 16. CORPULENT VEST. 



Breast, 43 ^ Level of scye, 9| f Front balance, 21 J 

MEASURES. -JiJ,^^ b'u4on 14 ^^^tural waist, 18^^ Back balance, 22i 

Full length, 28 J Front of scye, 13^. (^ First over-measure, 14. 



A' 



DRAFT PRODUCED BY THE MEASURES. 

DD f to scye depth 9|-10i inches. 
Add ] to front of scye 13|-14| inches. 

Add I to front of scye to square by shoulder 13^-1 4| inches. 

Add 1 inch to front balance 21f-22f inches. 

Add \ to back balance 19^-19f inches. 

Add \ to first over-measure 14-1 4J inches. 

Draw line for back seam; square across as at O. 

From O to C is lOi inches; to natural waist 18^ inches; B is half way between 
O and C. 

From O to D is ^ and a good seam. 

At D square up f for rise of neck; width of top of b ck to fancy. 

From B to W is ^ and J^; square up from W. 

From C to F is 14^ inches. 

Measure across \ of breast measure 2H, and add 2^ for making up, 24 inches. 

Square down, and sweep up by C as illustrated. 

Square up from F for front of scye, 4 inches. 

At B lay one arm of square at 14:^ inches, letting the angle fall at E and square 
up by the other arm. 

From F sweep across this line by first over-measure; deduct width of top of 
back, which gives shoulder point. 

From shoulder point, draw line to B for shoulder seam of forepart, and where it 
cuts the line squared up from W, will give shoulder seam of back. 

Form both shoulder seams and scye as illustrated, clearing at F, \ inch. 

Measure for top button, allowing f for seams. 

Measure for length of vest 28 inches, and square across to back seam. 

Add 1 inch for making up. 

Form bottom as illustrated; divide draft in halves; square line down. 

Reduce J at natural waist on back seam and \ at top; form back seam as illlus- 
trated. 

Measui-e across draft at natural waist for size of waist, adding 2 inches for mak- 
ng uj^; waist being 3 inches larger than breast nothing will be taken out underarm 
at natural waist; spring under arm seams and form front as illustrated. 

*Point for front and back balance will be on fore part, owing to size of waist. 

Find this point by measuring across \ of waist, allowing for seams, and apply 
front and back balance as illustrated. 



Th ird Edit lon.'\ 



'STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 



33 




34 •■ STANDARD" WORK OX CUTTING. IThird Edition. 



DIAGRAM IT. D. B. VEST. 



LAPELS CUT OFF. 



Breast 36^1 }^l^^ ""} SP-\ 3 f Front balance 19i 

MEASURES. Waist 32 Y YvoZoilTAv ^ ^'^'^ ^^^^^^^^ ^^^ 

Full length 26 | t,r°"/ ""^ ^-^>^ ^^^ ,., i Slope of shoulder 20-25i 
= i -birst over Measure 12^ 1^ '^ 

DRAFT PRODUCED BY THE MEASURES. 

ADD f to scye depth, 8J — 9i inches : 
Add 1 inch to front of scye, 11^ — 12A inches; 

Add I to front of scye to square shoulder by, IH — 12^ inches. 

Add i to first over measure, 12^ — 12f inches. 

Draw line for back seam ; Square across as at O ; 

From O to C is 9A inches : B is half way between O and C ; to D is i and a 
good seam ; 

At D square up % for rise of neck ; AVidth of top of back to fancy ; 

From B to W is \ and -jV ; Square up from W. 

From C to F is 12i inches ; 

Measure across i of Breast IS inches add lA, if wadded add 2 inches : 

Square down for lapel seam ; Sweep up by C for size of neck ; Square up 
from F for front of scye ; 

At B lay one arm of square at 12^ inches, letting tlie angle of square rest on 
breast line at E : Square up by the other arm ; 

From F sweep across this line by the first over measure, 12J inches ; 

Deduct width of top of back, which finds the shoulder point ; 

From the shoulder point, draw line to B for shoulder seam of fore part, and 
where it cuts the line squared up from W, will give the shoulder seam of bact ; 

Form both shoulder seams ; 

Form scye as illustrated clearing it at F, i inch : 

Measure for top button allowing J for seams : 

Measure for length of Vest 26, and square across to back seam ; 

Add 1 inch for seams and making up: Form bottom as illustrated : 

Divide draft in halves ; Square line down ; 

Take out 1 inch on each side of line at natural waist; Reduce f at natural waist 
on back seam ; 

Fit collar as illustrated ; 

Draft lapel according to prevailing style ; 

The button line will be the same distance fi'om the lapel seam as the corres- 
ponding button hole. 



ITiird Edition.] 



'STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 



3S 




36 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. [Third Editmi. 



DIAGRAM 18. CAPE OR CLOAK. 



r Front length 38 ^ g 
MEASURES. ^ Over shoulder 42 y 1 V , 
\ Back length 40 J «" *^^ ^«'''*- 

DRAFT BY DIVISIONS OF THE BREAST MEASURE TAKEN ON THE 

VEST. 

"pwRAW front line A O ; 

Square down for back seam ; 

From A to B is -jV less than \ : 

From B to C same distance as A to B ; 

From C to D is 5 distance of B to C ; 

Fi'om D to F same as from A to D ; 

From C to E same as from A to B ; 

Measui-e from F to E, and make F to G f inch longer and sew on the fullness 
stretching E F to it when pressing the seam ; 

From A to I same as from A to C ; 

Draw slash the shape of ordinary shoulder seam ; 

Fi'ont from D, measure of front length— 38 ; 

From E over shoulder — 42 ; 

From I — 40 inches ; 

Sweep bottom through lengths given ; 

Add button step or lapel as required and finish draft as illustrated ; 

This is a closer Cape or Cloak than that of Diagram 19, and is known as the ^ 
circle ; 

Back seam on crease edge of goods. 



Third Edition.} 



"STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING, 



Bnrl- Secun on the crease eSm- uf Cluth 




"STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. {Third Edition. 



DIAGRAM 19. CAPE OR CLOAK. 



r Front lengtli 38 



Breast 38 



MEASURES. - Over shoulder 42 . .i 

[ Back length 40 /o^^r the coat. 

CUT BY THE OVER SACK DRAFT. 

TTjLACE the Draft of over Sack which fits the figure in position as illustrated ; 
Open the shoulder at neck, 1^ inch ; 

Close shoulder at scye point ; 

This position gives a J circle ; 

If less fullness is required, open the shoulder slash still more ; 

If required double breasted add 1 inch more at front all through for lapel, and 
place the buttons correspondingly farther back. 



I'hird Edition.'] 



'STANDARD" WOllK ON CUTTING. 



39 




Third Edition.^ "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 41 



PANTALOONS. 

IT would appear a very simple matter to drape the leg and form a wrap around 
the seat and waist ; but simple as the problem appears a good fitting pair of 
Pantaloons Is rare to see. " Infallible'' Systems nevertheless reckon by the thousand 
and their apparent diversity is iiu-i-eased to the eye by front, centre and side seam l)al. 
ance lines ; yet they are mainly founded on the same primitive idea, varied only in the 
slant of the seat line ; when the variation grows outrageous, the backpart is frequently 
thrown out correspondingly at the bottom of the side seam with the sweep of a 
scimitar, and a shape is arrived at that fits nothing liumau, eomiielling the fronts to 
become an exhibition of creases. 

Had we any practical method of measuring the angle from the instep to the 
fork allowing for the bend of knee and the lobe of the seat, we should only have to 
bring the waist to measure, and all our difiiculties would be solved; but as it is^ 
this is a matter of experience and judgment ; and theoretical agreement seems about 
as impossible as practical divergence. 

We have given two drafts ; the first is somewhat novel and is an attempt to 
govern each portion of the garment by its measure on the form ; — Bottom, Seat, and 
Waist. It is more self varying than usual and produces for all shapes a graceful and 
easy fit. 

The second is one of the best practical methods which we know of, founded on 
generally received ideas, corrected by the light of our experience. Theoretical dis- 
putants have grown grey, and have left the question of " open and close cut " still 
unsolved ; yet the mystery lies within a very narrow compass. " How much shall 
the angle be opened ^" 

As the angle of the leg seam is opened the side seam is shortened ; as the angle 
of the leg seam is closed the side seam is lengthened ; when the side seam is short, 
horizontal creases will appear on the tap side from fork to knee, too much clotli is 
apparent up and down the leg, but a smooth back part is given, easy for riding or to 
sit down in ; but otherwise fnll of fatal objections ; when the side seam is long there 
will be tightness at knee when the leg is in motion, sitting down or going up stairs 
the constraint becomes annoying ; a too crooked seat line will cause the goods to bag 
at the seat and the fork will look too full ; too straight a seat line will also cause 
Avant of ease in sitting or stooping and the pantaloons will bulge at the knee. 

We have endeavored to steer mid-channel between the rocks. 

Other faults than those spoken of are mainly owing to want of unison in the 
lines of front and back parts, or to bad making up. 



"STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. {Third Edition. 



DIAGRAMS 20-21. PANTALOONS. 



( Outside seam, 4H ; i Seat, 36 ; 
MEASURES^ Inseam, 32; ' \ Knee, 17 ; 

( Waist, 31 ; ( Bottom, 17. 

DRAFT PRODUCED BY THE MEASURES. 

DIAGRAM 20. FRONT PART. 

DRAW line A; mark oft" inseam 32, outside 4H; and square out at bottom 
about 4 inches ; Mark off on this line \ of entire bottom, (17 on 6ths ;) 

From this point sweep by length of inseam at B across for crotch, and by out- 
side seam at C for waist ; 

From B on crotch sweep, mark oft' h of waist on thirds ; also, ^ seat on halves, 
less ^ inch ; Mark this point by * ; 

From * mark off also J^ — and \ of seat at D (18 on 12ths and 18 on 8ths) ; 

The crotch point is at the |- ; 

At jV lay angle of square, one arm touching at B, and square down by the other 
arm at E ; From D to E 32 ; Knee is 14 inches down from D ; 

Square across by line E ; 

Form inseam from D, reducing at knee \ inch, as illustrated ; 

From the \ at bottom through \ on crotch sweep, draw line to sweep of waist 
at O; 

From O to top of fly i of waist (15i >n 6ths) ; 

Draw line to * and shape fork, as illustrated ; undress side as per dotted lines; 

Make waist \ inch less than i of ^ waist, (15^) from top of fly ; 

Form top of side seam, giving the hip a gentle curve ; 

From E, the bottom is 7^ inches ; 

Form side seam, dropping h inch ; Shrinking line is at i of bottom ; 

Hollow instep and cut out front part. 

DIAGRAM 21. BACK PART. 

Place front part in position and extend sweeps at D B C ; 

Mark out from D -^ of seat (18 on 12ths), which gives crotch point of back 
part ; Rise \ of seat at O for top of waist ; 

From O \ waist and 1 inch — 8f inches gives top of side seam on back part ; 
From this point make waist to measure allowing for seams and slash ; From seat 
line at waist, draw line to undress side at crotch and shape crotch as illustrated; 
From E, I of bottom, 8A inches, for bottom of side seam ; 

Make bottom at leg seam to measure 17, allowing f for seams, 17f inches ; 

Form inseam, giving 1 inch at knee ; Allow for seams and make knee at side 
seam to measure ; 

From * on crotch sweep, measure front part to side seam. Lay this measure 
where crotch curve meets seat line and measure to B i of seat 18 — add li or 2 
inches for making up as desired, and finish draft as illustrated. Measure from fork 
and make notch of back at knee same length as that of front pai't ; from knee, measure 
to bottom, allowing \ inch on back part. 



STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. {Third Edition. 



DIAGRAMS 22-23. PANTALOONS. 



SECOND DRAFT. 



j Waist 


32 


-I Knee 


16 


( Bottom 


16 



Outside seam 40 
MEASURES.^ Inseam 30* 

Seat 36 

DRAFT PRODUCED BY THE MEASURES. 

DIAGRAM 22. FRONT PART. 

nnv RAW line A— square out at C ; 

-L^ Mark off inseam 30i at D — outside seam 40 at E — squai'e each across ; 

On line D mark off \ seat (18 on fourths) also ^ flS on halves) ; 

Square up and down for line B ; 

Make bottom width desired, say 7 inches ; 

* is the centre of bottom — from \ of seat to * at bottom draw centre line — 
sweep from * by inseam length on line B at crotch ; and on sweep make crotch point 
\ of seat (18 on Sths) ; 

Shape fork as illustrated ; 

Undress side as per dotted lines ; 

Knee is at 13:^ from crotch; square across by line B — f inch from centre line 
toward inseam make * and form knee equal on each side of * ; 

Form inseam as illustrated ; 

Shrinking line is at 2f from side seam ; 

Cut out fore part. ' 

DIAGRAM 23. BACKPART. 

Place front part in position — extend lines at bottom and knee — also at sweep of 

crotch — crotch of back part is at ^V f>f seat (18 on 12ths) ; 
Knee of back part is J of an inch out at leg seam ; make knee to measure 

allowing for seams ; bottom at equal distance from * allowing for seams ; 
Form inseam ; 

On line D on front part square up from side seam on 12ths as illustrated ; 
From where this line cuts waist line, measure back \ of seat (18 on 4tLis) 

for top of side seam of back part ; 
Make waist to measure allowing for seams and slashes — draw seat line to h of 
crotch on front part — shape crotch and seat seam as illustrated ; 

Measure across for size of seat allowing II or 2 inches as desii-ed for making up ; 
Form side seam — measure for notch of hind part, equal to notch on front at 
knee — from notches at knee measure to bottom allowing \ more on back part and 
finish draft as illustrated. 



PAET II. 



Third Edition.] "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 47 

THE NEW "STANDARD" SCALE. 

nnHIS Scale is graduated on the laws of growth as found in the normal Aiueri- 
can figure, and will produce a set of Patterns for the various Breast sizes 
agreeing with the Upper shoulder and Blade measures, (with due allowances for 
making up) as found opposite to the Breast size on the Table of Proportion accom- 
panying the Scale. This method gives the Cutter this advantage, in abnormal 
figures, that by taking the size of the shoulder on the Customer he can look up that 
measure in the table and select the pattern that will give the necessary size of 
shoulder, and by simply coi'recting the bi'east size, will get a good fitting pattern and 
save time. 

It has another advantage, also, that of simplicity. The letter on the Scale answers 
to the letter on the Diagram ; A on the scale is A on the Diagram. C on the scale if 
C on the Diagram, and so throughout : thus avoiding the confusion incident to such 
instructions as those given generally: — "place S on the scale at 4 and mark W, or 
place B at D and mark O at H. Add A." 

Widths on the figure are widths on the Scale; depths on the figure are depths 
on the Scale, and the Scale is so arranged that the two cannot be confounded. The 
widths are ou the top edge and correspond to the same letters on the widths of the 
illustrative diagrams. The depths are on the bottom edge of the Scale, and con'e- 
spond to the same letters as the depths on the Diagi'am. Graduated Scales ai'e gener- 
ally incorrect, the principle being but badly understood ; as introduced by the elder 
Compaing, it was a mathematical division only and produced a 24 or a 48, accord- 
ing to mathematical progression. But this is not what the human figure requires ; 
and, moreovei', those divisions were based on measurements as found in Greek sculp- 
ture, ou ideal figures; not on the measurements of the living figure of the time. Hav- 
ing an Apollo to fit of 38 chest it was perfect; as it was also, were the figure increased 
to 83, all would be in mathematical proportion, and if this colossal figure so fitted, 
were placed at an elevation that the distance would diminish it to 38, the symmetry 
would command admiration ; but the living human figure does not grow in height 
as it expands in breast measure. The law of growth is also different in Boyhood 
from that of Manhood, and after reaching 40 chest the change is still more empha- 
tically marked ; a Scale, therefoi-e, to be of practical use to the Cutter, must meet these 
conditions of change exactly in the ratio in which they occur. 



48 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. yrhird Edition. 

Were the human figure a mathematical one, no problem would be easier of 
solution ; but its beauty, like the difficulty of covering it, is of another order — it is 
neither spherical nor conical ; it is simply and inherently irregular ; it is an ideal 
humanity that answers to mathematical proportion, and cei'tainly has not been 
seen on the earth since the palmy days of Greece in the time of Pericles. What 
we know of that time teaches us to look upon the masterpieces of art that have 
come do^v'n to us as made up of ideal combination, and not as realistic copies. 
Greek statuary, though a study for the artist everywhere, gives no table of pro- 
portion on which we can build a basis for present Works in Cutting. Our tables 
must he gathered from the measure book — the real not the ideal. 

Moreovei-, in clothing a breathing and moving figure, we have to do and 
avoid doing many things easy of accomplishment were we making close fitting 
shrouds for the dead. Under the very best of circumstances we measure a sur- 
face in one direction, and have to apply the measure in another ; and the " Science 
and Art" involved here is that of allowance found only by experience and mam?y 
inca/pable alihe of logical and mathematMcal explanation. Approximation is all 
that we can affirm — absolute Scientific accuracy is out of the question, and happi- 
ly, is not required to insure success. 




Third BcUtion.] 



"STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 



49 



KEY to "STANDARD" SCALE. 



A Depth of shoulder seam on back. 

B 5 of Scye depth. 

C Scye Depth. 

D Width of top of back. 

E Point to square shoulders from. 

F Front of Scye. 

S Size of breast ] f "n dS" '™'" f 

W Width of back. 

^ Depth of Shoulder on forepart. 

The Scale will produce a Draft corresponding with the Shoulder and 
Blade measures placed opposite to the Breast size, with the necessary allow- 
ances. 

Breast, Shoulder and Blade measures are taken over the Vest. 

Shoulder and Blade measures as usually found to the corresponding 
Breast measure. 





TABLE OF 


PROPORTION. 




BREAST 


SHODLDER 


BLADE 


BREAST 


SHOULDER 


BLADE 


BREAST 


SHOULDER 


BLADE 


25 


18i 


15i 


33 


24i 


20^ 


41 


29i 


25f 


26 


19 


16 


34 


25 


21i 


42 


m 


26 


27 


19f 


16i 


35 


25^ 


21i 


43 


30i 


26i 


28 


20A 


17 


36 


26i 


22^ 


44 


30f 


26i 


29 


2U 


17i 


37 


27 


23i 


45 


31 


t 
26| 


30 


22 


18i 


38 


27i 


24 


46 


31i 


27 


31 


22f 


m 


39 


28^ 


24i 


47 


3U 


27i 


32 


23^ 


20 


40 


29i 


25i 


48 


31f 


27i 



"STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. {Third Fdition. 



DIAGRAM 24. S. B. SACK. 



16i ^ ~^ Breast 36 f g 1\ 

MEASURES. ]8i ■& V Waist 32 ^ | 20 
30 S J Seat 37 ^^ 31 



BY SCALE OF BREAST MEASURE. 

Q ELECT Scale of Breast measure 36. 
'^^ Draw line for back seam ; 

Square across as at O ; 

From O to D is end of scale to D ; 

Sqnare up | of an inch for rise of neck; 

Form top of back ; 

From O to A is end of scale to A ; from O to B is end of scale to B ; from O to 
C is end of scale to C; from O to natural waist is 16 A, to fashionable waist 18i, full 
length 30 inches ; 

Square out from each point except B ; 

From A to W is end of scale to W ; fi'om C to E is end of scale to E ; from C to 
F is end of scale to F ; from F to S is end of scale fi'om F to S ; 

Square down at S as illustrated ; add 1 inch for button step ; sweep upward by 
C for front ; 

Square up from E as illustrated; 

Square up from F about 3 inches for front of scye ; 

* on line E is end of scale to * ; 

Place angle of square at E, one arm touching at B, and where the othei arm 
strikes the top line of the draft is the shoulder point ; 

Form shoulder seam, dropping at scye point \ inch ; form scye as illustrated ; 
backpitch is on 12ths from W; form side seams taking out 1^ inch at natural waist; 

Top of side seams is \ from line C ; 

Spring is on I2ths, always at 30 inches down from O, whatever is the length of 
Sack ; 

Hollow back as illustrated ; 

Form gorge of neck raising it at front f inch ; 

Sweep from shoulder point by length of side seam for length of front and finish 
Draft as illustrated; 



Third Edition i\ 



'STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 



51 




■STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. [Third Edition. 



DIAGRAM 25. D. B. SACK. 



16^^ ~1 Breast 36 f aj 7i 

MEASURES. U\tay Waist 32 ^ S 20 

30 S J Seat 36 ^^ 31 

BY SCALE OF BREAST MEASURE. 

Q ELECT Scale of breast measure 36 ; 
^^ Draw line for back seam ; 

Square across as at O ; 

From O to D is end of scale to D; 

Square up -Jr of an inch for rise of neck ; form top of back ; 

From O to A is end of scale to A ; from O to B is end of scale to B ; from O to 
C is end of scale to C ; from O to natural waist is 16^, to fashionable waist 18i ; to 
full length 30 inches; 

Square out fi'om each point except B ; 

From A to W is end of scale to W ; from C to E is end of scale to E ; from C to 
F is end of scale to F ; from F to S is end of scale from F to S ; 

Square down at S as illustrated ; add 2^ or three inches as desired for lapel ac- 
cording to the prevailing style; 

Sweep upward by C for front ; 

Square up from E as illustrated ; 

Square up from F about 3 inches for front of scye ; 

* ou line E is end of scale to * ; 

Place angle of square at E, one arm touching at B, and where the other arm 
strikes the top line of the draft, is the shoulder point ; 

Form the shoulder seam, dropping at scye point \ inch ; form scye as illustrated ; 
back pitch is ou 12ths from W ; form side seams taking out U inch at uatural waist 

Top of side seams is I from line C. 

Spring is on 12ths; hollow back as illustrated ; 

Form gorge of neck, raising it at front | inch ; 

Sweep from shoulder point by length of side seam for length of front; 

Place buttons same distance from line squared down at S, as the edge of the 
corresponding buttonhole is. 

Finish Draft as illustrated. 



Third Edition. 




"STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. [Third Edition. 



DIAGRAM 26. S. B. OVER SACK. 



17^ -c r Breast 38 "l ^ 7i 
MEASURES. 19 g^^ Waist 34 ^ s: 20 

38 ^3 I Seat 39 J ^ 32 

BREAST MEASURE TAKEN OVER THE COAT. 

DRAFT by Scale of breast measure 38 ; 
Draw line for back seam ; Square across as at O ; 

From O to D is end of scale to D ; Square up 1 incli for rise of neck ; 

Form top of back at O, raising a good seam ; 

From O to A is end of scale to A — from O to B is end of scale to B — from O 
to C is end of scale to C — from O to natural waist is 17^, to fashionable waist 19 
full length 38 inches ; 

Square out from each point except B ; 

From A to W is end of scale to W ; Square down from W as illustrated ; 

From C to E is end of scale to E — from C to F is end of scale to F — from F 
to S is end of scale from F to S ; 

Square down at S as illustrated, add 2 inches more or less for button step ; 
square down^ — sweep for front by C — hollow back as illustrated, springing back 
seam out 1 inch at 36 inches down from O ; this prevents the drag so frequently 
seen at the back tack ; Square up from E — square up from F, 3 inches for front of 
scye ; * on line E is end of scale to * ; 

Place angle of square at E one arm touching at B, and where the other arm 
strikes top line of draft will be the shoulder point ; 

Form shoulder seam dropping at point of scye \ inch — form scye as illustrated 
— top of side seams is on 12ths from line C ; Form side seams, taking out 1^ inch 
at natural waist, and making spring | on line 36 down from O ; Form gorge of 
neck taking out V as illustrated — and raise front of neck above line A, \ inch. 

Sweep from shoulder point by length of side seam, and finish draft as illustrated, 
reducing at front 1| inch on line 36. 

Remarks. This draft is the same in principle as that of the Undersack; but being 
an Over Garment is necessarily cut more free and roomy at seat and has the spi'ing 
arranged on line 36 on 6ths ; it will be seen that a good seam is added above O, and 
that the gorge is well filled in, so as to make a pretty straight collar seam; the neck 
cut in this way, will aid in the formation of a free roll, and will allow the top edge of 
collar to lay close at the side of neck ; the '' Jour " should be instructed that when 
his forepart is basted to the canvas, to press the front edge in short, so as to bring 
it nearly straight, before not after putting on the edge stay, pressing the fullness back 
into the centre of the fore-part ; the front will roll anywhere desired with an ordinary 
straight collar ; the back pitch being placed at J down from W, will necessitate an 
alteration in the sleeve draft, as shown on Diagram 13 page 29. 



liitcli 




"STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. [Third Edition. 

DIAGRAM 27. D. B. OVER SACK. 



17* 


J ) 


Breast 38 


{ ^ 


VI 


19 


i" r 


Waist 


84 


i ^ 


20 


38 


J ( 


Seat 


39 


U 


82 



BREAST MEASURE TAKEN OVER THE COAT. 

'piRAFT by Scale of breast measure 88. 
Dra^v line for back seam; 

Square across as at O ; 

From O to D is end of scale to D ; 

Square up 1 inch for rise of neck ; 

Raise a good seam above O and form top of back ; 

From O to A is end of scale to A — from O to B is end of scale to B — from O 
to C is end of scale to C — from O to natural waist is 17^, to fashionable waist 19 
full length 38 inches ; 

Square out from all points except B ; 

From A to W is end of scale to W ; 

Square down from W as illustrated ; 

From C to E is end of scale to E — from C to F is end of scale to F — from F to 
S is end of scale to S ; 

Square down at S as illustrated. Add 3 inches more or less for lapel ; 

Square down. Sweep up for front by C ; 

Hollow back as illustrated, springing back seam out 1 inch at line 86 down 
from O ; 

Square up from E— square up from F 8 inches for front of scye ; 

* on line E is end of scale to * ; 

Place angle of square at E, one arm touching at B, and where the other arm 
strikes the top line of draft will be the shoulder point ; 

Form shoulder seam dropping at point of scye h inch ; 

Form scye as illustrateed ; 

Top of side seams is on 12ths from line C ; 

Foi'm side seams taking out 1^ inch at natui'al waist; 

Back pitch is \ from W. 

Make spring \ on line 3H inches down from O ; 

Foi-m gorge of neck, taking out V as illustrated ; 

Raise front of neck above line A \ inch ; 

Sweep from shoulder point by length of side seam and finish draft, reducing at 
front on line 36, 1 \ inch ; 

Place buttons back from line squared down at S same distance as the corres- 
ponding button hole. 



UncFi 




"STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. [Third Edition. 

DIAGRAM 28. S. B. 1 BUTTON CUTAWAY, 





16* 


CO \ 


Breast 


36 


( P 


7: 


MEASURES. 


18 


^f 


Waist 


32 


i ^ 


20 




33 


&^ 


Hips 


35 


Is 


31 



BY SCALE OF BREAST MEASURE. 

Q< ELECT Scale of breast measure 36. 
^^ Draw line for back seam; 

Square acioss as at O ; 

From O to D is end of scale to D; 

Square up | of au inch for rise of neck; form top of back; 

From O to A is end of scale to A ; from O to B is end of scale to B ; from O to 
C is end of scale to C ; from O to natural waist is 16^, to fashionable waist 18, full 
length 33 inches. 

Square out from each point except B. 

From A to W is end of scale to W ; from C to E is end of scale to E ; from C 
to F is end of scale to F; from F to S is end of scale from F to S ; 

Square down from W, as illustrated ; 

Form shoulder seam of back ; 

From W to top of side seam is 2\ inches (18 on 8ths); 

Form side seams taking out at blade ^ inch and at natural waist If inch ; 

Width of back at natural waist is 2^ inches ; 

Square down at S ; add 1 inch for button step ; sweep upward by C for front ; 

Square up from E as illustrated ; square up from F about 3 inches for front of 
scye ; 

* on line E is end of scale to *; 

Place angle of square at E, one arm touching at B and where the other arm 
strikes the top line of draft, is the shoulder point. 

Form shoulder seam, dropping at scye point ^ inch ; form scye as illustrated ; 

Back pitch is on 12ths from W ; form neck gorge, raising neck at front f of an 
inch ; hollow back as illustrated ; 

Form under arm seams, taking out \ inch at natural waist ; 

Sweep for length of front waist, from 1 inch behind the shoulder point by bot- 
tom of side seam ; 

Draw waist seam, and finish draft as illustrated. 



Third Edition.] 



'STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 



59 




16i 



'STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. [Third Edition. 



DIAGRAM 29. S. B. 4 BUTTON CUTAWAY. 



16^ ^ ) o, ( Breast 36 

MEASURE 18i f V ..^^t, \ Waist 32 

33 J ) ^^.^^,^1- (Hip 35 

BY SCALE OF BREAST MEASURE. 

SELECT Scale of breast measure 36. 
Draw line for back seam ; 

Square across as at O : 

From O to D is eud of Scale to D. 

Square up f of an inch for rise of neck; Form top of back. 

From O to A is end of scale to A — -from O to B is end of scale to B — fi-om O to 
C is eud of scale to C — ^from O to natural waist is 16^ — from O to fashionable waist 
is 18A — from O to full length is 33 inches. 

Square out from each point except B. 

From A to W is end of scale to W — from C to E is eud of scale to E — fi'om C 
to F is end of scale to F — from F to S is end of scale from F to S. 

Square down from W as illustrated ; 

Form shoulder seam of back ; 

From AV to top of side seam is '2\ inches (18 on 8ths) 

Form side seams taking out at blade \ inch and at natural waist If inches ; 
width of back at natural waist is ^\ inches : 

Square down atS — add 1 inch for button step — -sweep upward from Cfor front. 

Square up fi'om E as illustrated — square up from F about 3 inches for guide to 
front of scye ; * on line E is end of scale at E to * 

Place angle of square at E, one arm touching at B, and where the other arm 
strikes the top line of the di-aft is the shoulder point. 

Form shoulder seam, dropping at scye point \ of an inch — form scye as illus- 
trated ; back pitch is on 12ths from W. Form neck gorge raising neck at front | of 
an inch — hollow back as illustrated ; 

Form under arm seams taking out ^ of an inch at natural waist ; 

Sweep for front of waist from 1 inch behind the shoulder point by bottom of side 
body — draw waist seam. 

Cut out back and side body, place in closing position and measure across for 
size of breast 18 inches, add 2 inches for making up and 1 inch for step — 21 inches ; 
this to see that the draft measures correctly — place in closing position at waist and 
measure along waist seam ^ of the hip 17^, allowing for seams — make a mark and 
add 1 inch over — draw front line through this added inch — space off buttons and at 
the bottom button sweep line of front skirt as illustrated. 

DRAFT OF SKIRT. 

Place in position as diagi'ara — place angle of square at the hip of side-body and 
square over and down — at 6 inches across waist raise 1 inch and I'ound the plait ^ an 
inch — finish skirt as illustrated. 



Third Edition.'] 



'STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



61 




"STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. {Third Edition. 



DIAGRAM 30. D. B. FROCK. 





16* 


M ( 


Breast 36 


) - 


n 


MEASURES. 


18* 


1^\ 


Waist 


32 


u 


20 




37 


S^\ 


Hips 


35 


[^ 


31 



BY SCALE OF MEASURE. 

SELECT Scale of breast measure 36 ; 
Draw line for back seam ; 

Square across as at O ; From O to D is end of scale to D ; 

Square ujj f of an inch for rise of neck ; 

Form top of back ; 

From O to A is end of scale to A ; From O to B is end of scale to B ; Fi-om 
O to C is end of scale to C ; From O to natural waist 16i inches, to fashionable 
waist 18*; 

Square out from each point except B ; 

From A to W is end of scale to W ; Square down as illustrated ; 

Form shoulder seam of back ; From W to top of side seams is on Sths (2^ in 

ches) ; Width of back at natural waist is 2\ inches ; 

Form side seams as illustrated taking out * inch at blade and If inch at natural 
waist; From C to E is end of scale to E — from C to F is end of scale to 
F— From F to S is end of scale from F to S ; 

Square down from S— sweep up by C for front of breast ; 

Hollow back as illustrated ; 

Square up from E — -square up from F about 3 inches for front of scye ; 

* on line is end of scale to * 

Place angle of square at E one arm touching at B and where the other arm 
strikes the top line of di-aft is the shoulder point ; 

Form shoulder seam I'educing at scye point * inch , Form scye as illustrated — 
back pitch is on 12ths from W ; Form neck gorge raising neck at front | of an 
inch ; Form under arm seams taking out at natural waist * inch ; 

Sweep from 1 inch behind shoulder point by length of side seam for front 
length, and shape waist seam as illustrated ; Cut out back and side body — place 
them in closing position at waist and measure across * waist 16, add 2* inches for 
making up 18*, and form lapel seam as illusrated ; 

When the waist is less than the normal size, say 30 or 31, do not cut the lapel 
seam any different but make the difference by taking out equally at fish and side 
body seams ; it is preferable to reduce the waist by two fishes rather than to have a 
too round breast line ; if the waist is reduced at front, the coat when buttoned is apt 
to ride up ; moreover it makes a greater difiiculty to the "Jour" to produce a good 
front ; the present style of lapel is annexed — cut about 2 inches at bottom and 2\ at 
top. 



Third Edition.^ 



'STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 



63 




18i 



64 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. [Third Edition. 



DIAGRAM 31. S. B. VEST. 



( 10^ top button. 36 Breast. 

MEASURES. \ 25 Length. 32 Waist. 

I Natural Waist 16|. 

BY SCALE OF BREAST MEASURE. 

DRAW back seam. 
Square across as at O ; 

From O to D is end of scale to D ; 

Square up | iucli for rise of neck ; 

Form top of back ; 

From O to A is end of scale to A ; 

From O to B is end of scale to B ; 

From O to C is end of scale to C ; 

From O to natural waist is 1 6^ inches ; 

Square out from each point except B ; 

From A to W is end of scale to W ; Square up ; 

From W to * is end of scale to * ; 

Form shoulder seam as illustrated, widening top of back a good seam ; 

From C to E is end of scale to E ; from C to F is end of scale to F ; 

Square up from E ; square up from F, 3 inches for front of scye ; 

Place angle of square at E, one arm touching at B, and where the other arm 
strikes the top line will be the shoulder point ; 

* on line E is end of scale to * ; 

From shoulder point draw line through this depth and form shoulder seam of 
fore part ; 

Form scye as illustrated, dealing line at F about \ of an inch ; 

From C across to front of draft is \ breast measure and 2| inches — 20^ ; 

Divide draft into equal parts and square down ; 

Form side seams taking out one inch on each side of natural waist ; 

Form back seam, reducing at top \ of an inch and at natural waist | of 
an inch. 

Square down for front line and form front of Vest as illustrated. Allowing for 
width of top of back make Vest exact length and square across. 

Add 1 inch for making up and form bottom of Vest as illustrated; 

Top button to measure, allowing foi' width of top of back and seams; 

Form gorge as illustrated. 

Should there be more difference than 4 inches between breast and waist 
(36-32), take out a fish instead of a V; if the size of waist is equal to or more than 
breast add on \ of the difference on front and \ under arm. See Diagram of cor- 
pulent Vest. 



Third Jtdition.] 



'STANDARD" WOUK ON CUTTING. 



65 




16^ 



PAET III. 



Third Edition.] "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 67 



MISFITS. 



M 



ISFITS arise from the folloAving causes : 



1st. An incorrect measure. 
2d. Misconception of the Form. 
8d. Want of cai'e in drafting. 
4th. Bad making up. 



1st. 
An incorrect measure. 
See pages 6-7-8 and 9. 



2d. 

Misconception of the Form. 

A careful study of the methods inculcated under the headings, 

Attitude or Inclination, see pages 68-7'2, 

Use of Block Patterns, see pages 73-81, 

will give the student the necessary information regarding the eiTor which causes th 
misfit. 



3d. 

Want of care in drafting. 
The only reason for this heading is to emphasize the necessity of care. 
The two self-evident propositions the Cutter has to bear in mind are : 

Get a correct measure. 

Apply it correctly. 



4th. 
Bad Making up. 
See pages 83-8(1 



68 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. {Third Edition. 

INCLINATION OR ATTITUDE OF THE FIG- 
URE TO BE FITTED. 



HAVING taken the required measures with the greatest care possiljle, we have 
only arrived at lengths, depths and widths from one point to another; and 
that, too, over a curved surface. Now, it is evident, that on laying off these meas- 
ures, we do so on other lines and in other directions than on the figure measured. 
Every line on the body is more or less on the curve, and some of the measures in 
their course pass over a very irregular surface, round at one place and hollow at 
another ; to rectify which we have to fall back on experience as to what allowance, 
either of increase or decrease, that experience has found to be necessary. When that 
has been done and we have the di'aft completed so fai-, two other things of equal, if 
not greater impoitance, remain to be considered ; first, style ; second, attitude or in- 
clination of the figure — the figure may bend from the waist, blade, or toi) of shoulder, 
backward or foi'ward. These two positions are seen in Diagram A and Diagiara B ; 
or bending either way above the blade, may take a contrary direction below. It is 
easy to be understood that the direction of the body has to be followed as well as 
the lengths and widths, or there will be a misfit .The required room may be in the 
draft, but it may not be in the right dii-ection. The method which produced the 
draft will have to be supplemented by considerations, which shall place the given 
lines of length and width in the required direction. 

Diagrams C and D are the drafts as produced by measure. 
Diagram B is the alteration made for the stooping figure. 
Diagram A is the alteration made for the over-erect figure. 
The pi'inciple involved is the same in both instances : that of swinging the pat- 
tern on a pivot foi'ward or backward, as inclined in its attitude. 

The waist suppression must not be interfered with, as all necessary changes are 
made by the change of the position. 

For the stooping figure : — Lay the back in position and swing it forward, mak- 
ing C a pivot to the extent that judgment dictates. 

The scje has no need to be forwarded, nor has the shoulder point. The front 
scye is correctly located by the front of scye or short blade measure, and the greater 
depth of back scye has made the necessary variation in the shoulder point. 

Diagram A shows the alteration tj suit the over-erect figure. It will be seen 
that C is made a pivot, and that the back is thrown backwards in the direction 
of the over-erect attitude, as indicated by the dotted lines. The measure in this 
case, as in the stooping one, has located the scye in the right place, and the 
shorter back measure, in squaring for the shoulder point, has brought it farther back, 
giving it the necessary inclination demanded. 



ITiird Edition. 



"STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTINO. 



69 




STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. {Third Edition. 



DIAGRAM F. SWAYBACK. 



rriHE stooping figure,w]iich generally has an indentation at tlie natural waist of about 
I inch or f, sometimes takes the foi'm of what is called the swayback ; that is; 
from below the blade, the attitude is thesameasthatof the over-erect, and the indenta- 
tion reaches 1^ or If inch, a figure generally considered very difficult to fit; this 
can be accomplished, however, by following the instructions given in Diagram B, 
page 69. Incline the back forward foi- the stooping position of the shoulders and 
then throw out the back skirt by the waist indentation as in Diagram I, page 69, for 
the over-erect figure. In Diagram E the waist indentation is | of an inch only, while 
in Diagram F the waist indentation is 11 inch as per dotted line. The top part of 
the back is ol' the same inclination in both figures. 



TIdrd Edition.] 



'STANDARD" WOKK ON OITTTING. 



71 




A y^ sivaij buck 




PAET IV. 



Third Edition.] "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. n 



USE OF BLOCK PATTERNS. 

~j PAVING secured Patterns suited to the class of Trade for which they are 
required, it is requisite to enter on the measure book whatever differences 
from the normal type can be detected by the Cutter as aids to his measures. Short 
neck, flat hips, hollow at chest above the breast line, over-erect, head carried back, 
head forward, hollow between the blades, fleshy across back and around shoidders, 
very stooping, narrow chested, flat seat, prominent hips, high or low shoulders, pro- 
minent or flat blade, or any other peculiar conformation that the eye can detect. Note 
height, weight, age, as all of those remarks will be of untold advantage as the 
Cutter acquires experience in the use of Block Patterns. 



"74 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. ^Third Edition. 



USE OF BLOCK PATTERNS. 



DIAGRAMS G-H. STOOPING FIGURE. 

PLACE back in position and mark round it lightly; 
Pivot at C and incline the back forward as indicated by dotted lines ; 

From O to C ronnd the back seam slightly to give more room across the 
shoulders ; the proper inclination being given, sufficient ease will be obtained for 
the round of the shoulders and a clean smoothly-fitting back will be the result ; on 
stooping forms the back is relatively longei- than the normal pattern ; it is therefore 
necessary toadd as on the diagram; if no measure has been taken add \ or f of an 
inch, according to judgment; 

Place the fore-part in position and mark round it lightly; make mark as X and 
use X as a pivot inclining fore part forward half as much as the back was, and mark 
around as per dotted lines ; the scye will be forwarded thereby and the shoulder 
point also. 

The shoulders are not necessarily larger because the figure stoops ; it is simply 
a difference in front and back lengths; instead of the first over measure being ISA 
it will be possibly llf, the lost | being made up from the front of scye to socket 
bone at O; the measure will also be more from F to C ; it will be necessary to 
shorten the shoulder as per broken lines to preserve the same size of the shoulder. 



DIAGRAMS I-J. THE OVER-ERECT. 

Place Pattern of back in p-r^sition, mark round it lightly, use C as a pivot and 
swing the back backward as per dotted lines ; this gives the attitude or inclination 
of the figuie; 

Over-erect figures are shorter from C to O than the normal one which the 
pattern fits, it will therefore be necessary to reduce as per broken lines on the 
Diagram. 

FORE-PART. 

Place the fore-part in position, mark round it lightly, use * at arm scye as a 
pivot, and mark around it as per dotted lines ; 

Reduce under arm and add at front of breast as illustrated; erect figures being 
smaller from C to F and larger from F aci'oss to the front of breast than the normal 
form which the pattern fits ; this figure is also longer on the front shoulder and 
requires to be added to as per broken lines the same amount as taken ofl: the back, 
and the reduction under the arm so as to make the shoulder measure fill. These 
figures accounted so difficult to fit, lose their apparent difficulty when it is considered 
that the three figures measure the same size of shoulder ; the difference being that the 
stooping is longer on the back and shorter on the front of shoulder ; the erect figure 
is shorter on the back and as much longer on the front shoulder. 

Our illustration provides step by step for these differences. 

In each case adjust the length of side seam of side body to the altered back. 
Diagrams G-H, I and J show the action of the principle involved step by step, but 
Diagrams K-L, M and N sho^v a quicker and simpler method which arrives at the 
same result. 



Third EditionJ] 



STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 



73 




V6 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. [Third Edition. 

USE OF BLOCK PATTER]S"S, Oontinued. 

DIAGRAMS K-L. 

CUT across the back at the point where the incliuatiou of the figure commences 
and open for the stooping figure what the measure calls for over and above 
that of the block pattern and mark around the back. 

Reform the back seam so as not to have a too sudden curve. 



FORE PART. 



Cut across the fore part on the breast line and lap one half the amount the 
back was opened ; mark around the pattern, then reduce a little at front of breast 
and cut out pattern. 

Another method taught in the old school is to make a round shoulder seam on 
either the back or fore part or on both, and also to add to the round of blade or side 
seam of side body; this puts on a longer back, raises the neck, and gives the required 
measures over the rounded back shoulder of the bent back of the stooping figure it 
is true ; but, it is unfortunately true also, that it places too much cloth on the front 
shoulder of fore part, making the shoulder seam longer than is required, and works 
in time into wrinkles, simply because cloth is given where it is not wanted ; it places 
too much length on the round of blade and balloons the back below the curve of the 
hachseam IncUnatioiioi the figure; the difficulties of the jour, are increased, and it is 
next to impossible for him to produce a clean, smooth, natural looking shoulder and 
side seam ; when on, such a coat has a heavy and clumsy look around the neck aud 
shoulders, strongly emphasising the disproportion ; and is one more striking illustra. 
tion of the danger incurred through not following the lines of the figure ; 



DIAGRAMS M-N. OVER ERECT, 

Do just the reverse of that for the stooping figui'e — cut across back and lap the parts 
to bring the level at scye line on back to the required measure, and open the fore 
part on breast line, adding to make breast larger just what is taken oif at side body 
under arm. 

Remarks : In case the shoulder measures are larger than the block pattern will 
measure, take the size breast that comes to the shoulder measures required — treat 
the pattern as already instructed, and placing the different parts in closing position 
make the breast size to measure. 



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'STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 




78 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. [Third EcUtion. 

USE OF BLOCK PATTERNS, Continued. 

DIAGRAM. SLOPING SHOULDER WITH ARM SCYE REGULAR- 

rriHE Sloping Shoulder must notl)e mistaken for tlae long neck; the shoulder may 
be very low and the neck be of normal length ; a low shoulder may also be ao. 
companied by a long neck, but this is so marked a form that it can not easily be 
mistaken ; the usual error made is not noticing whether the scye is smaller or not 
than is usual; in all cases of slopi.^g shoulder it is well to take the scye measure ; if 
the scye measure is proportionate to the size of shoulder, the dotted lines give the 
necessary alteration; if smaller, then Diagram P should be followed. The back re- 
mains the same in either case. See Diagram R. 



HIGH SHOULDER. 

High shouldered figures usually stand over erect, and the block pattern should 
be treated as per Diagram M for the over erect figure ; then add on at scye point of 
shoulder, \ or f inch, as required ; the scye level measure will show if the neck needs 
to be lowered. 



DIAGRAM S. SHORT NECK. 

Simply reduce as per dotted lines. 



DIAGRAM T. LONG NECK. 

The Normal or Block Pattern, being too low in the neck for this figure, add on 
as illustrated, but it is necessary to spring the seams at neck point of shoulder 
in order that the Coat may go up and keep its place around the neck ; many a Coat 
sufficientl}" high in the neck, but not hollow enough at side of neck, drops down in a 
crease under collar seam and bafiles the inexperienced to discover the fault. 



Ttdrd Edition.^ 



" STANDARD" WUUK ON CUTTING. 



79 




80 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. {Third Edition. 

LARGE WAISTED FIGURE. 

rriO altei- a block pattern to suit this figure demands s^^ecial attention ; the extra 
-*- size is usually from the side body seams to the front ; if so, add J- 
of the diffei-enee at the waist under the arm and | on the front ; but it sometimes 
happens that the form is pretty well rounded almost from the hip button ; in such 
a case add \ of the difference under the arm at waist gradually from the top of side 
body and the other \ in front. 

This balances the figure as well as it can be on general principles ; it will be 
necessary to adjust the run of the bottom of the scye. 



SMALL WAISTS. 



It is best to allow the front line at lapel seam and the side seam line to be un. 
disturbed, and to take out the difference of measure at the side body seams and 
at the front slash ; if the waist is very small it is advisable to take out two slashes. 



DIAGRAM 32. LARGE HIPS. 

This Figure has to be arranged for in a different manner than is usually taught, 
and frequently gives trouble to the experienced cutter; the student is generally 
told to dispense with the waist measure; to allow for seams and govern all coats 
that button at or near the waist, by the hip measure ; this is a mistake as it places 
the increase of size at the front when it is wanted on the hips, mainly on each side of 
the hip bone ; a careful study of the diagram will show the correct method ; 
the rest of the diagram excej^t that the hips are li inch larger is the same draft as 
Diagram 6, page 21; shoulder point, bottom of side seam, waist suppression are all 
the same; the difference is on the hip; the extra size requii'ed being placed there from 
the natural waist as spring; the fish is slightly altered also to give the advantage of 
a forward spring on the waist seam, so as to ease the skirt in front; the side body 
should be stretched as hard as the goods will admit of without going back again; 
the waist seam of the fore part should be gradually w'orked out to give the hip the 
required size, as it is scarcely possible to give all the size in spring on the under arm 
seams sufficiently sudden without giving the ajipearance of the female hip, which 
must be avoided; a judicious use of the iron will greatly aid the formation of a nice 
appearance around the waist of a figure with prominent hips ; the waist of the skirt 
should also be well shrunk in before joining to the fore part. 



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"STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 



81 




PART Y. 



84 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. [Third Edition. 



ON MAKING UP. 



To make this Work more complete, we propose to give some practical advice in 
making up, that experience has taught us is much needed. 

To have a well marked success, the Cutter must know all the details of the 
makino- up ; in point of fact, should be as much " at home " in the workroom as at 
the cutting table. He should be so much the master of his business as to be enabled 
to take the garment out of the hand of the " Jour " and point out what is wrong, 
beyond the possibility of contradiction ; else he stunds a poor chance of being able 
to distiuguish where the faults lie when accidents happen. This is not a work on 
manners, therefore we need say no more than that faults should be kindly pointed 
out ; it is bad policy to offend the ivorTcnian. 

Do with as little stretching as possible, and wherever edges require to be tight- 
ened have it done by the iron before the edges are stayed by tape. See that the 
facings are put in smoothly and of suiScient size ; taking for granted that the seams 
have been cut with the required contour of curve, see that the line is preserved in 
the making up, and that the facings are always felled exactly on tJie seams, preserv- 
ing the same shape. A very important thing, as regards gracefulness and fit, is 
comprised in putting in the facings to fit the outside ; if this be properly done and 
the Coat is not what it should he, then the Cutter has a problem for consideration.- 

Nothing tells more against a Cutter's reputation than creases or wrinkles in his 
garments ; not even a misfit. On the detection of a crease, whether it be across the 
top of the back, across the shoulder, at front of scye, across the breast, or across the 
top of side seam (and it is the Cutter's experience to get all of them , it becomes his 
business to hiow the why and wherefore ; and, unless he be as conversant with the 
details of the making up of the garment as he is with the cutting of it; he is placed 
in a very unenviable position, he is at the mercy of the " JourP 

Many who either cannot or do not reason, place a ci'eased shoulder on the broad back 
of that White Elephant in the Trade, the shoulder point ; it is said to be too straight 
or too croohed, dependant upon its being more forward or more backward than just 
that exact spot which, to such minds, is the ne plus ultra of all that is required in a 
coat ; entirely overlooking the fact that in the many practical systems used by our 
leading cutters (all other conditions being equal) that the shoulder point has a play 
of an inch forward and an inch backward from a central point, and in no instance 
getting a creased shoulder; of course, always provided the required length of strap 
is given. 



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"STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 



85 



If the shoulder is of sufficient length and in its proper position and yet creases, 
what is the cause ? We answer, the most prolific of all causes — 

TWISTED FACINGS. 

Facings should be cut about f of an inch larger around neck, shoulder seam and 
scye than the fore part ; no more ; it is usual to cut them an inch larger ; the two 
lines on diagram 1 will show what we mean. When cut to the outside line there is 
too much margin given to the Jour, and if, as is generally the case in all shops ex- 
cept those of the best trade (and sometimes even among them), the sleeves are sewn in 
by machine, and that too before the facing is basted to the shoulder ; it is more than 
probable as the Jour has then no guide as to shape that most or all of the extra 




width will get pushed out at A or D see (Diagram 2), and cut off, the extra length will 
be basted in between D and B ; the consequence is that the scye from D to B being 
on the bias, and the fullness of the sleeve being kept on in that distance, that this 
part of the scye gets stretched to the length of the facing, and being serged 
tightly to it, drops down with the back pad at back scye, causing wrinkles as shown 
in Diagrams 2 and 3 on blade, besides having the effect of making the top of side seam 
appear too large ; too much length from B to D made in this way affects point A, as 
if A were cut too short, and unsightly wrinkles appear as shown in Diagram 4 ; once 
in, never out again ; you may rip shoulder seam, IkjIIow and stretch fore part at neck 
point of shoulder and gorge, put back and collar on full and lengthen shoulder point 
to balance the lengthened scye point, but the creases will not away — the only chance 
is to cut the entire facing clear across the shoulder, canvas wadding and interlining 



86 



"STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 



[ Third Edition. 



and baste new top of facing to tlie shape of sboulder, for there is the fault and this 
is the cure. The facing is a joint conij)act mass, welded together by being thickly 
padded, or still worse, machine sewed and ahoays vommands tlie outside ; it becomes 
the same thing as if the Cutter had cut the shoulder f of an inch too short at neck 
point, and as much too long at "^cye point ; had this been done all know the shoulder 
must break, and it is more certain to do so now, by the facing being twisted in shape, 
and pulling the outside in different directions. Such defective tailoring is very apt, too, 
to further increase the fault by the back being put on tight in the hollow of the 
shoulder, which of itself would throw creases even if there were no facing. Diagram 
2, will show also in the lower line a too deep interlining and wadding brought down 
below the round of blade and hollow of side body and side seam. Now, the out- 
side is hollow under the arm and round over the blade, falling in at top of side seam 
point ; as usually worked up, the interlining and its cargo being made up flat, and on 
the straight, drags on the blade, causing the outside to appear full, as we have be- 
fore noticed (see Diagram 3), and when brought up to the shoulder and closed, hav- 
ing neither sufficient length nor width for the outside on the rounded parts, drags 
away at A, causing creases as seen on Diagram 4. 




ILLUSTRATIVE DIAGRAMS 3, 4, 5 and 6. 

The facings should always be cut through at the side seam — the back pad being 
made apart from the side body, and stitched on the back lining independently, and 
fastened on side seam as it is on the shoulder seam to the exact shape of the respect- 
ive seams, and on the seams not half or three-quarters of an inch away from them. 
This troublesome crease business, and it is an ever recurring one in large trades, can 
be easily avoided by the means we have indicated. 

In speaking of twisted facings as the most prolific cause of creased shoulders we 
desire to impress on the mind of the reader the obvious fact that if the inside of the 
Coat does not fit the cus^-omer the outside cannot ; if any main point of the facing 
fail to reach its proper position by one-half inch or by one and a half inches, that 



Third EditionA^ "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 87 



main point of the outside to whict such point of the facing is attached, is thereby 
located where the facing brings it, besides having the outside disfigured by the 
crease, fold or wrinkle into which the outside consequently doubles up. 

Tiw facing slwnld he tiglit noivhere, neither in length nor width, but should fit 
the outside as the inside of the eggshell fits the outside ; whei'ever possible the fac- 
ing should be treated as is the outside ; V for V, shrinking for shrinking, stretching 
for stretching ; and where the facing cannot be stretched as is the outside, a V or 
fullness should be used to produce the same effect ; the front edge is more «)r less 
shrunk in always, yet how few shrink in the facing to fit it ; the consequence is that 
the outside is all of a blister, and the room intended to have been given over the 
round of the chest is destroyed and the coat tightened across the buttoning ; the 
shape required is indicated by the cuts and the boundary lines ; but what is more 
common in the daily experience of the Cutter than to find the same effect produced 
in the finished garment when he has cut V's as when he has cut fishes ; often both 
are pressed out flat and the whole effect destroyed by the facing being put in, not 
only flat but tight also ; the fish intended to make a shapely hollow, the V a re- 
quired fullness on the round ; each desired effect destroyed by defective tailoring 
and the garment finished as flat as the cutting-table, except where the tightened edge 
curls the thing inward ; this is not shaping, it is simply crippling the outside ; even 
when the canvas, hair-cloth and its cargo may be rightly shaped, the cloth facing 
and lining counteract what this was intended to produce. The simplest method 
known to us is to build up one part of the garment on the other — the canvas on the 
outside, the interlining, hair-cloth and padding successively placed one upon the 
other, each in its turn worked up to fit each other. The shape of the facings can be 
greatly helped by cutting the edges which are sewn to each other lengthwise. (See 
Diagram 6). 

Just whei-e the lining sews on to the inner edge of the cloth, is usually the place 
on the breast that the Cutter intends should be shaped to the figure, and by cuts he pro- 
duces a rounded form; it will be seen that both edges are rounded in the Diagram; 
this gives both length and width at this part and meets the requirements of the out- 
side and has no tendency to slide away from its proper place when finished, as is the 
case in some other methods intended to produce the same effect. Facings cut as per 
Diagram 6, prevent the formation of horizontal creases across the breast, which we 
have seen after a few days wear start from the top button, increasing in boldness as 
they traveled downward to the waist seam ; when this is the case a slash lengthwise 
and another crosswise will show the trouble plainly ; the facing freed will gape as if 
tired by the effort to spoil the fit. Put on the garment after the slashes have been 
made, that which seemed shapeless, swinging about as if it had no relation to the 
figure it was made for, will drop into its place hugging the breast, falling neatly 
into the hips and around the breast, fulfilling the best hopes of the Cutter. 



88 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING, yThird Edition. 

Diagram 5 is oflferecl as a Coniindriim to those who still cling to the ridiculous 
idea that the mere position of the shoulder point is the cause of creases on the 
shouldei'. It is intended to represent the shoulder of a Coat without a shoulder 
seam, the back and fore pail being cut in one piece. Will any tailor out of a lunatic 
asylum doubt that this shoulder will crease and wrinkle if the facings are put in 
as we described when considering them as the cause of the trouble ? Put on a short 
collar, twist the facings, keep the fullness of the sleeve head close to back pitch, 
and as far away from fore arm as is possible, and a most interesting " kill " is the 
result ; creased shoulder, tightened scye and fullness at top of side body seam will 
then be apparent ; but where, all this time is the shoulder point ? 

A Coat may be cut outrageously crooked, crooked enough to fall away from 
the fore arm pivot and swing off at the hip, or it may be cut outrageously straight, 
straight as the latest appearance of the old thirds and fourths in its grand edition, 
and yet no creases need appear on the shoulders ; in the one case, the Coat may soon 
tear at the fore arm, and in the other, no amount of objugatory prayer will keep it 
fi'om lapping at the front of scye ; the Customer will complain of too much cloth, 
but it is simply the result of a constrained position of the shoulder — the shoulder 
out of its position with respect to the other parts of the garment. Slash such a Coat 
across from the place where the lap commences above the fore arm to the top but- 
ton, and the breast will open enough to get rid of the lapping, but the Coat will 
hang listlessly around the hips under the arms like* a flapping sail, showing 
plainly that a true balance is the liarnionious relationship of the various pieces called 
a Coat. On paper the draughtsman can make any point his fixed point and rightly 
claim that it must not be disturbed, because all his other points obey its governing 
impulse, he may start his Coat from a given inclination or direction of the breast- 
line, the neck and hip can only be placed within determinable spaces ; his suppres- 
sion then becomes of vital consideration; he may start from some point in the neck 
ciicle and work downwards, locating every point in accordance M'ith this one ; or he 
may prefer the orthodox straight back seam and work from the socket bone in the 
usual way, locating his several points upon some theory of mutual relationship, but 
it is upon this idea only can he work rationally and come out right. How much do 
3'ou take out at top of side body ? How much do you take out between back and 
side body at natural waist i How much do you consider ought to be taken out under 
arm ? Do you think, chimes in a discoverer, that anything ought to come out at side 
seam, top or bottom, simply a fish to fit the hollow — is not that your idea; Where do 
you fix your shoulder point ? Who has not been asked these questions whenever a 
number of Ciitteis rally round a Coat Draft I We close this essay by saying that 
such questions are proof positive that the questioners have all to learn ; that they 
are as yet totally ignorant of the first principles involved ; every point is in relation 
as to position with every other. 



PAET VI. 



PO "STANDARD" WORK ON CLTTTING. [Third Edition. 

CREASES IN GENERAL. 

IT is not ouly across the shoulders and breast that badly fitting, twisted and 
tight facings will produce creases. We have already pointed out that horizontal 
Avrinkles are too apt to gather across the top of the side-body also, and that when 
this defect occurs it not unfrequently happens that it causes the scye to feel tight at 
the ff)rearni ; it sometimes chances that the creases extend from the forearm across 
the shoulder, making a heavy fold underneath the collar seam from one side of the 
neck to the other ; in such an extreme case as this, the facing being much too short 
to reach the shoulder-point, the back lining is pulled upon to supply the deficiency, 
and having no moi'e width at top of back than the l)ack itself requires, it produces 
a similar effect to that caused by the back lining being too short at top ; but the 
chief fault is that there is not sufficient room in the lining around the neck, which 
cripples the outside by bringing it down to that place around the neck which is of the 
same size in its curve as the lining ; a fold or wrinkle below is the inevitable conse- 
quence ; it cannot lie smoothly about the neck on a longer curve than that to Avhich 
the insufficient inside has brought the outside. 

Back linings are rarely put in wide enough immediately across the top of back, 
as the shoulder seams of the lining are felled befoi'e the collar is sewed on, and no 
allowance is made for the stretching of the neck gorge ; true, it is custom- 
ary to put a plait through the back seam ; but it is also customary to 
securely tighten it by sewing the makei*'s name ticket firmly across the back plait, a 
piece of stout silk or lasting on the straight fastened down so as effectually to coun- 
teract any good for which the plait was intended ; kept from all elasticity still 
further by the felling of the collar. 

The attempt to cori-ect this fault of a roll around the back neck, is made mainly 
on the supposition that the Coat is cut too high in the neck, oi- that the collar is over- 
stretched and put on shoit ; in the former case the neck is lowered and the collar 
stretched ; but the unsightly fold remains, because the lining, ten chances to one, is 
now tighter than before ; in the latter case the collar is lengthened, but to no pur- 
pose ; a V in the facing at neck gorge and more lining across the top of back is the 
remedy, at once simple and correct ; this being attended to and the fault still in 
existence, the Coat is [)i'obably cut too high in the neck, and also lacks sufficient 
spring foi" the slope of neck at shoulder point of shoulder seam ; this is easily dis- 
covered by opening the shoulder seam and setting the collar free at top of back ; in 
stout figures with short thick necks, the double fault is sometimes made in cutting ; 
cut too high in the neck, and also nipped too much at neck of shoulder seams on 
forepart and back ; and it is sometimes, nay, often, caused by badly cut underwear 
and woi'se out shirts making a thick roll of goods across the back at top, making it 
next to impossible for any outer garment to remain smoothly in its place. 



Third Edition.^ 



'STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 



CREASES AT BAOK-SCYE. 

This fault in an othei-wise faultless coat is fre(|nently caused by cutting too 
straight a back seaiu for the sake of style, and is as often found in the work of high- 
class^trades as in that of poorer ones. It is a fixed idea with the cutter, that unless 
the back of the figure to be fitted has a violent inclination one way or the other, 
bending backward or bending forward, very stooping, or over-erect, it k a fixed idea 
that the hacTc seam shotild he cut straight, ai'id the back is lengthened or shortened as 
if this squarely met the case ; printers' ink is used in abundance; teachers of cuttnig 
affect to be knowing and talk glibly ; anatomy, mathematics, and machinery are called 
into coui-t to get the true level of arm scye on the back, and a point at right angles 
with the same at front of scye; with these relative measurements thus secured, the 
cutter is assured that he cannot go wrong. Alas! it so happens that he does, not- 
withstanding — meamvement is not attitude, length is not inclination. 

SEE DIAGRAMS 1 AND 2. 





ILLUSTRATIVE DIAGRAMS 1, 3, 3 and 4. 



Diagram 1 shows the section of the normal back which is to be fitted ; Diagram 
2, the back cut in true orthodox fashion to fit it. Now it is self-evident that when 
the straight edge of the back-seam is placed on this curved inclination, there will be 
a superabundance of cloth to 1 e got rid off somehow, or theie will be no fit; it is as 
idle to e.xpect it as it would be to think of fitting a spherical ball or a cone by join- 
ino- stiaifht lines together. A glance at Diagram 6, will show what we mean : 
wedges must be taken out as at Y, either end, or fit is impossible ; so in fitting the 
irregular curves of the human figure we have to get rid of the "too muchness" by 
taking out w'edges. How much and where, is the Cutter's problem. Diagram 5, is a 
representation of the current method ; we take out at E, O and D — very rai'ely any- 
thing at A, unless for very marked abnormality. What, then, is the consequence ? 



"STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 



{Third Edition. 



Shaping by drawing in, pressing away of fullness, stretching, shrinking, and by some 
minor reductions, V's and slashes, we contrive to get a flexible material into some- 
thinf like respectable form. Happily, or unhappily, we have not to deal with inflex- 
ible 'o-oods — happily, because we now escape thereby downright failure which other- 
wise°would be our lot ; unhappily, because if we were forced to work out results 
with inflexible goods, we should have to put ourselves under practical scientific 
study, and, paradoxical as it may appear, principles would be sought and found, that 
may not yet for many a year dawn upou our contented and benighted undei'stand- 
ino^s. Wie should then be driven to follow the curves and lines of the surface to be 
fitted and though driven to our wit's end for some method of rectification, we have 
no doubt that a cleaner fit and a far higher artistic result would be achieved with 
the more difficult material. Diagram 4 shows what frequently occurs when a straight 




ILLUSTRATIVE DIAGRAMS 5 and 6. 

line in the back is made to cover a figure only slightly more bent forward than the 
normal one ; there is a pucker or fullness at D, and no extra reduction as at E and 
O, Diagram 5, will lemove it. Cut the back across as at O and O, Diagram 3, and 
the shoulder seam drops down, lapping over the superabundant goods, and the back 
seam if ripped open will fall forward at the top. Diagram 3 is pui'posely exaggerated 
to make the meaning clearer ; an easy alteration can be made, provided an outlet has 
been left in the back seam. 

Open the back seam from the socket bone to below the arm-scye level, and the 
gap will show at once what is wanted — the fault at D will have disappeared, show- 
ing plainly that a wedge ought to have been taken out at top of back, as well as at 
points of sboulder, top of side seam and bottom of same. No one would attempt to 
fit the curve of the blade Avithout taking out wedges, and yet the same man will 
expect to get a clean surface on the curve of the back seam without it. A curved 
l)ack seam" with the right inclination, may actually have a shoiier back and give a 
cleaner and more graceful style than the straight and longer one. 



